Different Types of Cufflinks: A Guide to Different Styles and Closures

Cufflinks can be a small detail, but they can make a formal outfit look noticeably more put-together. The tricky part? Once you start looking for a pair, you'll come across names like bullet back, whale back, fixed back and chain link, and it isn't always obvious what the difference is.

The main types of cufflinks are distinguished by how they fasten to your shirt cuff. They can also differ in their material, shape, finish and overall design. Some, such as bullet and whale back cufflinks, are easy to use and work well for regular wear, while others offer a more traditional or distinctive appearance.

Understanding these differences makes it easier to choose a pair that suits your shirt, occasion and personal style.

What Are the Different Types of Cufflinks?

Cufflinks can be classified in several ways, but the most useful distinction is their fastening mechanism.

Some cufflinks have a movable toggle that locks them in place, while others use a fixed back, chain or hinged mechanism. The decorative front can then take almost any form, from a simple metal design to enamel, gemstones, fabric or personalised details.

The most common types include:

• Bullet back cufflinks
• Whale back cufflinks
• Fixed back cufflinks
• Ball return cufflinks
• Chain link cufflinks
• Knot cufflinks
• Stud or button cufflinks
• Locking dual-action cufflinks

The difference between them isn't only about appearance. The fastening affects how easy the cufflinks are to put on, how they sit on the cuff and how practical they are for regular wear.

Types of Cufflinks Based on Their Closure

1. Bullet Back Cufflinks

Bullet back cufflinks are one of the most popular styles, particularly because they are relatively easy to use.

They feature a decorative front connected to a small post and a cylindrical, bullet-shaped toggle at the back. To fasten them, turn the toggle sideways, pass it through the cuff's buttonhole and then turn it back into position.

Once the toggle is perpendicular to the post, it holds the cufflink securely against the back of the cuff. For someone buying their first pair, this is one of the simpler mechanisms to get used to. It also works well when you wear cufflinks regularly and don't want to spend too much time dealing with the fastening.

Best for: Office wear, everyday formalwear and first-time cufflink wearers.

2. Whale Back Cufflinks

Whale back cufflinks work on a similar principle but use a different type of toggle. Instead of a cylindrical bullet, they have a flat, solid piece that flips against the post. You rotate the toggle so it lines up with the post, pass it through the cuff and then flip it back to secure the cufflink.

The mechanism is straightforward and the flat back gives the cufflink a neat, traditional construction. They're also versatile enough to work with everything from business shirts to more formal outfits.

Best for: Business wear, formal occasions and regular use.

3. Fixed Back Cufflinks

Fixed back cufflinks have no movable toggle. The decorative face, post and back are connected as one solid piece. To wear them, you simply angle the cufflink and push it through the buttonholes of the cuff. Since there are no moving parts, the construction is simple and sturdy.

The only thing to keep in mind is that they can take a little more practice to put on because the back cannot be rotated out of the way.

Best for: Traditional formalwear, minimalist styling and those who prefer a solid construction.

4. Ball Return Cufflinks

Ball return cufflinks have a rounded ball at the back connected to the decorative front by a curved post. Rather than relying on a toggle, the rounded ball acts as the fastening element once the cufflink has been pushed through the cuff.

The design has a distinctly traditional feel and is often chosen by people who want something a little different from the more familiar bullet or whale back.

Best for: Classic formalwear and traditional styling.

5. Chain Link Cufflinks

Chain link cufflinks are one of the more traditional styles. Instead of a rigid post and movable toggle, the front and back are connected by a short chain. This means both ends can feature a decorative element. The chain passes through the cuff and allows the two ends to sit on either side of it. The flexible construction gives chain link cufflinks a distinctive appearance, although they can take a little more coordination to put on than bullet or whale back styles.

If you like accessories with a vintage-inspired feel, chain links can add character without looking overly modern.

Best for: Vintage-inspired outfits, special occasions and distinctive personal style.

6. Knot Cufflinks

Knot cufflinks are easily recognised by their intertwined design. They can be made from metal, silk, fabric or other materials, depending on the style. Compared with larger decorative cufflinks, knot designs tend to be smaller and more understated. Fabric and silk versions can also introduce colour and texture to an outfit without making the accessory feel too formal.

That makes them particularly versatile when you want to wear cufflinks outside of strictly formal occasions.

Best for: Business-casual outfits, relaxed formalwear and subtle styling.

7. Stud or Button Cufflinks

Stud cufflinks, sometimes called button cufflinks, have a compact decorative face with a simple fastening at the back. Their smaller profile creates a clean and minimalist appearance. Rather than drawing attention to themselves, they quietly finish the shirt cuff and let the rest of the outfit take centre stage.

Stud-style cufflinks are also associated with very formal dressing, particularly when a simple and understated accessory is preferred.

Best for: Formal occasions, minimalist outfits and black-tie dressing.

8. Locking Dual-Action Cufflinks

Locking dual-action cufflinks use a hinged mechanism that opens to pass through the cuff and then closes into a locked position. This is a more contemporary approach to cufflink construction. The mechanism can feel particularly secure once fastened and offers an alternative to the traditional toggle styles. They're a practical choice if you wear cufflinks frequently and prefer a modern fastening mechanism.

Best for: Modern formalwear and frequent cufflink wearers.

Types of Cufflinks at a Glance

The table gives you the quick answer, but the choice doesn't have to be complicated. If ease of use is your priority, bullet and whale backs are good starting points. If you are more interested in traditional construction or a distinctive appearance, fixed, chain or stud styles give you more options.

Cufflink Styles Based on Material and Design

The fastening tells you how a cufflink works. The material and design tell you how it looks. Two cufflinks can have exactly the same back mechanism but create completely different impressions depending on their finish, colour and decorative details.

Metal Cufflinks

Classic metal cufflinks are among the easiest to incorporate into a wardrobe. Silver-tone and gold-tone designs can work with business suits, formal shirts and occasion wear.

A smooth, polished finish gives a more traditional appearance, while brushed or textured finishes can add some visual interest without becoming too flashy.

Enamel Cufflinks

Enamel is a simple way to introduce colour into your formalwear. Depending on the design, an enamel cufflink can be subtle or become a more noticeable part of the outfit.

A small coloured detail can work well with a classic suit, while brighter designs can be useful when you want your accessories to show more personality.

Gemstone Cufflinks

Gemstone cufflinks add colour, texture and a more luxurious touch. The gemstone may be the main feature of the design or simply a small accent. They're particularly suitable for occasions where accessories can be more expressive, such as weddings or evening events.

Personalised and Novelty Cufflinks

Cufflinks don't always have to be traditional. Initials, symbols, hobbies and unusual motifs can turn a pair into a more personal accessory. These styles can be especially meaningful as gifts or for occasions where you want your outfit to have a detail that feels distinctly yours.

Fabric and Silk Cufflinks

Fabric and silk cufflinks offer a softer alternative to metal. They can add colour and texture without creating the more formal appearance associated with polished metal or gemstones. They're particularly useful when you want to introduce cufflinks into business-casual or less formal outfits.

Which Type of Cufflinks Should You Choose?

The right type depends on the occasion, how often you'll wear them and the kind of look you want to create.

If you're buying your first pair, bullet back or whale back cufflinks are practical options. Both are relatively easy to fasten, and a simple design can work with several shirts and suits.

For office wear, a clean metal pair is usually a safe and versatile choice. You want your cufflinks to complement your shirt and suit rather than compete with them.

For a wedding, you can be a little more expressive. Enamel, gemstones, interesting shapes or personalised details can add character while still keeping the overall outfit polished.

For a black-tie event, stud-style or understated metal cufflinks are often a natural choice. The simpler design keeps the focus on the formal silhouette rather than adding unnecessary visual clutter.

And if you prefer a vintage or individual style, chain link and knot cufflinks give you an opportunity to move away from the most conventional designs.

What Shirts Can You Wear With Cufflinks?

Before choosing cufflinks, check whether your shirt is designed to accommodate them.

Cufflinks are traditionally worn with French cuffs, also known as double cuffs. These cuffs fold back on themselves and are secured with cufflinks rather than relying on permanently attached buttons.

Some shirts also have convertible cuffs, which can be worn with either buttons or cufflinks.

A standard barrel cuff with a permanently attached button generally isn't designed for cufflinks. So, if you're buying a pair for a particular shirt, check the cuff construction first.

How to Choose the Right Cufflinks

Once you understand the different types, choosing a pair becomes much easier. Start with four things: occasion, fastening, design and versatility.

• Think about the occasion. A pair for everyday office wear doesn't need to be as elaborate as one chosen for a wedding or evening event.

• Consider the fastening. If you're new to cufflinks, bullet and whale backs are relatively easy to handle. If you've worn cufflinks before, you may be more comfortable experimenting with fixed, chain or dual-action styles.

• Look at your existing wardrobe. If you mostly wear white, blue and neutral shirts, a classic metal pair can work across several outfits. If your wardrobe is more understated, a little colour or texture in your cufflinks can add interest.

• Pay attention to proportion and comfort. Large statement cufflinks can become a focal point, while smaller designs tend to blend more naturally into a formal outfit. Whichever style you choose, it should sit comfortably on the cuff without feeling unnecessarily bulky.

Most importantly, don't choose cufflinks simply because a particular style is popular. Think about how you'll actually wear them. A versatile pair that works with several outfits will usually earn more use than a design that only suits one occasion.

Conclusion

There are several types of cufflinks, but the differences become much easier to understand once you know what to look for. Bullet and whale back cufflinks are practical and easy to use, fixed and ball return styles offer a more traditional construction, while chain, knot, stud and dual-action cufflinks provide different options for style and fastening.

From the office to a wedding or black-tie event, the right pair should work with your shirt, suit and the occasion rather than feeling like an afterthought.

Start with the fastening that feels comfortable, choose a design that fits your personal style and make sure it works with the shirts you already own. Cufflinks may be a small part of an outfit, but when chosen well, they can be the detail that brings the whole look together.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the main types of cufflinks?

The main types of cufflinks include bullet back, whale back, fixed back, ball return, chain link, knot, stud or button and dual-action locking cufflinks. They are primarily distinguished by their fastening mechanisms.

Which type of cufflinks is easiest to use?

Bullet back and whale back cufflinks are generally among the easiest to use. Their movable fasteners make it relatively simple to insert them through the cuff and secure them in place.

What is the difference between bullet back and whale back cufflinks?

Both use movable fasteners, but the mechanisms are shaped differently. Bullet back cufflinks use a small cylindrical or bullet-shaped toggle, while whale back cufflinks use a flatter toggle that flips against the post.

What type of cufflinks should you wear to a wedding?

A wedding gives you more freedom to experiment with cufflinks. Classic metal, enamel, gemstone or personalised designs can all work, depending on the dress code and the rest of your outfit.

Can you wear cufflinks with a normal shirt?

Cufflinks are designed for shirts with suitable cuffs, particularly French or double cuffs and some convertible cuffs. A standard shirt with a fixed buttoned barrel cuff generally isn't designed to be worn with cufflinks.